Joe Hendren

Joe Hendren

Butter wouldn’t melt: Nicola Willis and the politics of dairy denial

Why should New Zealanders pay international prices for butter while subsidising carbon-heavy agribusiness?

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Joe Hendren
Jul 23, 2025
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Not surprisingly, former Fonterra senior manager Nicola Willis says we should blame supermarkets—not Fonterra—for high butter prices.

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Finance Minister Nicola Willis - Fonterra’s “anchor” in the government.

Fonterra was founded in 2001 as a state-backed national firm for the dairy industry.

Butter prices are also influenced by government decisions to regulate — or fail to regulate — monopolies or near monopolies. Given that over 80% of New Zealand’s raw milk is collected and processed by Fonterra, this also gives the company a dominant position in the butter market. Next comes the duopoly of Foodstuffs and Woolworths operating the supermarkets. For consumers, getting a block of yellow grease feels like stepping from one monopolistic trap into another.

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As Finance Minister, Willis suggests we should welcome high commodity prices because they are good for the New Zealand economy. But good for whom, exactly? As I explained in a previous post, prior to the imposition of neoliberalism, there were mechanisms within the New Zealand economy that allowed the benefits to be more widely shared with the community.

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